This study investigates the impact of hydrophobic Natural Eutectic Solvents (NES) on the physicochemical and sensory characteristics of cosmetic creams. The aim is to assess their potential as innovative, sustainable ingredients introduced directly into the oily phase of an oil-in-water emulsion prior to emulsification.

This research assesses a novel cosmetic ingredient blending Lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower extract and dipeptide-4 (LA-DP4, hereafter 'the blend'), for its potential to mitigate oxidative and glycation damage, boost autophagy and regulate circadian rhythms.

The systemic absorption of active ingredients in commercial sunscreens has raised safety concerns. This has created a need for advanced delivery systems that can enhance efficacy while minimising skin penetration. A promising solution is the encapsulation of sunscreen agents within microcapsules. The objective of this study is to demonstrate a simple and controllable method based on microfluidics for the preparation of sunscreen microcapsules with high ultraviolet absorption, good thermal stability, enhanced monodispersity and improved UV absorption performance.

Oat lipids are rich in ceramides. In this investigation, we analysed the delivery of a specific Oat Lipid Extract derived from Avena sativa, comprising 'skin identical' ratios of fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol/sterol. This investigation is the first reported investigation of oat lipids utilizing Raman spectroscopy for the identification of oat ceramides from A. sativa supported by Lipbarvis®, transmission electron microscopy and immunofluorescence analysis.

To develop and evaluate a novel silicone ionic gel (SIG) for personal care applications, designed to deliver enhanced texture, hydration, and compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients.

Niacinamide is a well-established ingredient known for reducing hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This study aimed to explore the potential synergistic effects of niacinamide and low pH in melanogenesis pathways and their impact on skin hyperpigmentation in clinical trials.

To address the current lack of standardized tools for evaluating hair appearance in the beauty industry, this study presents a robust and accessible method for objectively quantifying hair fibre orientation using two-dimensional discrete Fourier transform (2D-DFT).

In recent years, the psychological dimension of skin health has attracted increasing research interest, with established skin-related wellbeing metrics providing valuable insights for various conditions in clinical dermatology. This growing focus underscores the importance of developing sensitive, well-validated tools to better understand the emotional impact of skin health and appearance in healthy populations. The present article details the development and validation of such a metric, the SkinCARE Questionnaire (Condition and Affective Response Evaluation), and its relation to self-reported psychological stress and sleep health.

Although some studies suggest the benefits of clay minerals in hair treatments, limited research has addressed their effects on the mechanical properties of hair fibres. This study investigates the incorporation of two commercial clays (designated A and B) into solid shampoo and conditioner formulations and evaluates their impact on the mechanical performance of hair fibres. X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF) analysis of the clays revealed a high silica content. X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis identified montmorillonite and nontronite phases in clay A, characterizing it as bentonite. In contrast, clay B exhibited a predominant muscovite phase with secondary phases of illite and chlorite. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) confirmed the presence of typical vibrational modes associated with these clay minerals. UV-VIS spectroscopy showed strong absorption in the ultraviolet region for both clays. Formulations were developed with clay concentrations of 0.5%, 1.5%, and 3.0%, alongside a clay-free control. The addition of clays significantly enhanced the mechanical strength of the hair fibres, particularly clay B, which yielded a 94% improvement at 3.0% concentration. Combing force measurements also improved, indicating that the tested concentration effectively reduced frizz. Gloss measurements showed excellent enhancement across all formulations, with clay B increasing specular reflection by 56% at 3.0%. Overall, these findings demonstrate a promising potential for commercial clays to improve the mechanical and aesthetic properties of hair when incorporated into cosmetic formulations.

Sensitive skin is typically characterized by dryness, reactivity and inflammation, often associated with a compromised skin barrier and an imbalanced microbiome. This study aims to investigate the effects and mechanisms of fermented tea seed oil in improving sensitive skin, particularly focusing on the skin lipid barrier and microbiome.

Innovation is considered a determining factor in the highly competitive environment of the cosmetic industry to introduce products while creating new needs. The goal of the study consisted of developing a highly natural and minimalist emulsion with sensorially pleasant skin application highlighted by an innovative ingredient based on a Ca double cone vector system. The desired product characteristics include a creamy, white texture that is not too greasy or excessively whitening, with rapid skin penetration to facilitate its use for skin treatment.

We investigated skin hydration and anti-ageing efficacies of Ectoine, a natural bacterial osmolyte, utilising human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (Hs68) cells under non- or UVB (30 mJ/cm) exposure.

The stratum corneum is essential for maintaining the skin barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss. Damage to this layer increases skin sensitivity, potentially leading to inflammation and related complications.

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a paradigm shift as consumers increasingly seek sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives. This shift has led to a resurgence of interest in natural products, perceived as healthier and environmentally responsible. This review critically explores the integration of plant-based ingredients into cosmetic formulations, outlining their bioactivities, safety considerations, and industry implications. By systematically analysing reviewed evidence and market data, the review identifies current applications, emerging opportunities, and research gaps in skincare, haircare, perfumery, oral care, and lip care sectors. In different cosmeceutical care, natural products like Aloe vera, Matricaria recutita, Camellia sinensis, Ziziphus spina-christi, Lemna minor, Annona muricata and various other plant extracts contribute to overall oral hygiene and lip health. Due to the escalating demand for sustainable beauty materials, this review finds major outcome of plant-based ingredients in shaping the future of cosmetic innovations worldwide.

Improvement of application, performance, colour predictability and stability of plant-based hair colourants derived from Lawsonia inermis L. by investigating the release mechanism of lawsone during extraction and optimizing processing conditions to prevent its premature formation. A two-component system was developed, consisting of naturally occurring lawsone precursors (hennosides) in one formulation and a catalytic agent (β-glucosidase) in another.

Research on female facial attractiveness has focused on the effects of face shape and skin condition. Few studies have investigated the impact of hair on assessments of female attractiveness. Research using images of computer-generated (rendered) hair has demonstrated that subtle variations in hair thickness, density and style affect perceptions of female age, health and attractiveness.

Oxidative stress and its induced protein alterations are instrumental in the early onset and progression of ageing. To protect the skin proteome, we evaluated the extract of a bacterium isolated from snowflakes (Arthrobacter agilis). This Arthrobacter agilis extract (AAE) has been found to be rich in bacterioruberins, C-50 unsaturated carotenoids with potent antioxidative properties.

While androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is primarily driven by excessive 5-α reductase (5-αR) activity, further mechanisms also contribute to the development of AGA and other hair loss disorders. Here, we explored the properties of the proprietary lipidosterolic extracts of the plant Serenoa repens (LSESr), also known as Saw Palmetto, focusing on USPlus® DERM Bioactive Fatty Acids (USPlus® DERM). USPlus® DERM contains concentrated levels of bioactive free fatty acids (FFAs) that are integral lipids found in the hair shaft and modulate pathways relevant to hair follicle (HF) function. Therefore, USPlus® DERM promises to have both 5-αR-dependent and also -independent hair growth-promoting effects. Here, we initially confirmed the 5-αR inhibitor activity of USPlus® DERM in primary human hair follicle dermal papilla cells. USPlus® DERM exhibited a more potent 5-αR inhibition than a standard, commercially available saw palmetto extract and a standardized LSESr meeting the US Pharmacopoeia monograph, with IC values of 0.39, 29.1 and 9.1 μg/mL respectively. To explore potential 5-αR-independent responses, USPlus® DERM was administered at two different concentrations, 0.4 and 10 μg/mL, to androgen-independent, 'clinically healthy' full-length HFs ex vivo obtained from the occipital scalp of male donors, in the absence of testosterone. Interestingly, USPlus® DERM at 0.4 μg/mL significantly reduced the number of melanin clumps, regarded as signs of organ culture mediated stress conditions. Despite inter-donor variations, USPlus® DERM prolonged anagen ex vivo, particularly at the low concentration, evidenced by a significant reduction in the hair cycle score and the tendency to boost hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation (Ki-67cells). USPlus® DERM did not affect dermal papilla inductivity, as measured by versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity. While the percentage of K15 epithelial HF stem cells (eHFSC) remained unaffected, 0.4 μg/mL USPlus® DERM tendentially enhanced K15 expression and reduced the number of Ki-67K15 cells, indicating reinforcement of the eHFSCs niche. These preliminary findings suggest that USPlus® DERM has the potential to promote hair growth and to enhance HFSC stemness in the 'clinically predictive' HF organ culture model, independently from 5-αR inhibition. Thus, USPlus® DERM deserves to be further investigated as an anti-hair loss strategy, for not only AGA management but also other hair loss disorders.

This study aims to use electrokinetic analysis to investigate the deposition behaviour and conditioning efficacy of cationic surfactants on human hair, focusing on how surfactant structure, concentration and hair damage influence performance. It also aims to understand the mechanisms governing surfactant adsorption and their impact on hair manageability and health.

Chronic UVA exposure leads to oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation and DNA photodamage, resulting in clinical manifestations of photoaging. In addition to UV filtering, multifunctional sunscreens enriched with antioxidants and humectants may support skin barrier repair and inflammation mitigation.

This review offers an in-depth exploration of the bioactivities, extraction techniques, formulation approaches and practical uses of naturally derived antioxidants in anti-ageing skincare. A critical analysis of the literature was performed. Extracts from leaves, aerial parts, seeds, peels, fruits and barks exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and anti-tyrosinase activities. Natural-based antioxidants exhibit a wide range of bioactivities as neutralizing free radicals through mechanisms such as metal chelation and activation of cellular antioxidant pathways (e.g. Nrf2/ARE) and anti-inflammatory effects by modulating cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 and promoting wound healing by stimulating collagen synthesis and bioactive compound production. Extracts from Mucuna species, Magnolia officinalis and Arbutus unedo, for instance, demonstrate anti-ageing efficacy by inhibiting enzymes such as collagenase, elastase and MMPs. Certain fruit and seed extracts provide photoprotection with high SPF values, while others-such as mushroom extracts and essential oils-display potent antimicrobial activity. Their bioactivity is often enhanced through fermentation processes, innovative delivery systems like liposomes, niosomes and polymeric micelles, which improve stability, bioavailability and topical effectiveness. Extraction methods for natural antioxidants-including aqueous, hydroalcoholic, ultrasound-assisted (UAE), fermentation-assisted and alternative solvent (NaDES) techniques-are crucial for recovering and stabilizing bioactive compounds. Emerging green technologies such as supercritical CO extraction (SC-CO), subcritical water extraction (SWE), supramolecular solvents (SUPRAS) and cloud point extraction (CPE) offer sustainable and selective recovery of bioactives with reduced environmental impact. These bioactives address oxidative stress, UV damage and dermal ageing, offering multifunctional applications in cosmeceuticals, pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. However, challenges such as photostability, inconsistent bioavailability and regulatory hurdles persist. Future research focusing on synergistic formulations, clinical validation and microbiome-friendly antioxidants will drive their advancement in next-generation sustainable skincare.